It took guts for me to get on a motor bike in the back streets of newcastle (my home town in Australia) so the thought of hitting the streets of Ha noi was slightly intimidating for me, to say the least – but then you see all these stylish and dainty vietnamese women taking on the traffic looking like they are on a yacht cruising along.  So after a little practice in the countryside and being told I could start in second or third gear no problems, I slowly put on the throttle and headed off along the road to the centre of Hanoi.  Of course I wasn’t alone, it wouldn’t be right to ride in Hanoi alone when some people are carrying three or four passengers.  I had my friend Trang behind me and she had my camera pack on so I had lots of precious cargo.

I kept my head looking forward, occasionally glancing in my mirror – no one checks their blindspot here, it’s assumed the drivers in your blindspot have a sixth sense that you are going to pull out in front of them and they will know how to swerve in such a way that other vehicles will move out of their way – I guess it’s just a series of waves of people getting out of each others way.  The best thing is, it is not competitive and it’s not fast. I felt like I could take it easy and just keep my eye out for vehicles approaching from my periphery and slow down or swerve as needed.   I managed to stop and start without stalling (I think these bikes don’t stall too easily) and I learnt that you don’t wait til the light goes green.  There is a countdown for the end of the red light – you hear the engines rev from about 10 seconds to go, and they are off at about 6.  This is if you stop for red lights.  I slowed down for one light and trang told me to keep going – it’s just one of those lights where no one is coming from the side street anyway so there’s no reason to stop – kinda like the way many cyclists approach traffic lights.  I managed to turn right and left without too many dramas – I did need to come to an abrupt holt momentarily as I was squeezed between traffic coming directly from my right and a lady on a scooter swerving around me.

I was a little bit frazzled by the experience but I definitely had moments of peace and moments of fun while we were going along.  I had unfortunately lost my sunglasses – they fell out of my bag the day before while I was on the back of a motor bike and it was like watching them being trampled by a stampede – although my driver nearly did a quick and fearless u-turn into oncoming traffic before I convinced her it wasn’t worth it.  Most people in hanoi don’t wear glasses and I can’t work out why – the glare and the dust are pretty full on.  I had to wipe my eyes a few times.

I enjoy looking around at the other motor bike riders.  There is something about them that just makes them so awesome – it might be their laidback almost elegant look while they are surrounded by millions of bikes, or it could be the fact that high heels and glamourous skirts sit comfortable next to engines and exhaust pipes.  After a few more times riding I might try to be a bit more glamourous but for now I’m happy to have made it safely.

So I’ve been getting out and using transport and so far I have no scars to show for it (the only scar I have on my face is from hitting my head on a chair while frantically cleaning up before leaving Australia :P).  The main thing that has changed for me is an increased sense of autonomy and an understanding of what other people are going through when they are getting around their city of hanoi.  So in the heat I have pedaled, walked, ridden, waited and hopped on bicycles, motor bikes, taxis, buses and my own two feet to feel what it’s like to move around hanoi – I don’t have the grace, the poise or the compacency of residents who are familiar with the system, but I have one week to get there – so let’s go through my first attempts at the bicycle and then I’ll get back to you about my motor bike and bus experiences…

Bicycle – it was a fine sunday morning in the suburbs of hanoi.  With map in a hand and feeling generally comfortable weaving my way through traffic on a bicycle I decided I could ride to meet my friend in the wild west of hanoi.  This involved riding along two very wide roads which were connected by a more human sized street – I think around 10km in total.  I guess the vasts roads feel safe because there is lots of room but they are not pleasant, particularly in the heat.  It feels like there is heat radiating towards you from every direction and the space makes you feel very exposed.  I guess the only comforting things around you are the people and your fashionable face and body covering clothing (pictures to follow).  Riding a bicycle does allow you to ride as close to the right side (close to the curb) as you like as long as you are comfortable swerving for ANY traffic entering from the right.  It’s also important to be aware of the girl on the fancy scooter who spots some avocados she wants and spontaneously swings her machine to the curb to have an animated and seemingly long conversation with the avocado seller as she shakes the fruit to check whether they will make awesome smoothies.  Anyway, things happen on the road – people pull over, talk and text as if full concentration and being predictable aren’t too important to keep the road functioning…  and the buildings around you are actually really interesting – ranging from advertisement filled plain but colourful buildings to very ornate and interesting architecture.

OK, I feel like I got destracted from my bicycle riding for a second there – an easy thing to do in hanoi.  I have to admit there is some shade and being close to the curb allowed me to take advantage of the trees that line sections of the road.  But then I did find myself wanting to overtake all sorts of vehicles and realising that my style of bicycle riding was probably a bit vigorous for hanoi because I was overtaking bicycles like they were standing still.  I guess I was hitting a high cadence on my little one speed pink machine.   Maybe I needed to learn to chill out and just cruise along or pick up passengers to weigh myself down.  The locals almost look like they are meditating as they pedal along.  I arrive at my destination after asking directions a few times along the way and feeling proud of myself for negotiating intersections where you feel like the movements of the vehicles and people could only have been co-ordinated to work through an arduous rehearsal schedule like it was a dance routine.  And when you ask local people how their traffic system works (as in how they co-ordinate between themselves who gives way to who) they look at you a bit confused and say they just drive slowly and it’s ok….

Once I arrived at my destination a young girl helped me out by telling me to park my bicycle around the side – and as I rode around I saw motor bikes and bicycles swarming towards a massive shed -there was about a hectare of underground parking for bicycles and bikes and it was all being used.  It was free to park my bike and I got a ticket and the corresponding number was drawn on my bicycle.  It felt like we were being processed as people lined up their bikes, gave their bags to a locker service and headed off to a typical suburban mall.

Since my first ride I have taken the opportunity to ride into the city.  On the more narrow roads you feel more like you are part of a river.  You know that the people around you that are heading in the same direction as you are protecting you and I guess you are protecting them.  There were a few times I didn’t want to stop or turn because it felt like a tide was pushing me along – but once you realise you can stop almost anywhere or turn left from the right hand ‘lane’ (there aren’t really any lanes), you realise you have lots of freedom and friends.  I guess the trick is not to get arrogant with your assumption that we are all giving way to each other.

Another interesting experience is dinking my housemate through the market.  Luckily my seat is a bit low as I had to stop a few times and tried to keep going without wobbling as there was no room for such nonsense – bicycles, people, trucks, motorbikes and chickens all shared the road and my passenger was carrying precious eggs for dinner.  The markets are lively and people seem unpredictable but yet bike riders always seem ready to move the right way to avoid them.  I guess the locals make it all look so easy ….

Today I bought a bicycle thanks to my three favourite vietnamese sisters who had an animated discussion with the lady at the shop to get a better price for me.  It is pink and I have ridden it on the local streets here to the markets.  I have to remember to ride on the right side of the road or lane or whatever piece of land can accomodate a bicycle.  I also brought a very sensible ridiculous shirt for riding on the bikes – it has little hand covers and a hood and it also has flowers and kermit the frog on it – I think it will go well with my bike :P.

I had a little practice on my friend’s motor bike but  I am still a little scared to ride on the little roads (and maybe too scared to ride on the big roads too).  I am enjoying riding on the back of bikes and I have stopped worrying at all about crashing – things just seem to always work out.  I think I am even becoming ok at crossing the road.

Hanoi streets vary from the vast hot open highways with no shade but people tend to move freely (always looking forward) to the small streets shaded by lush looking trees and way too many power lines.  There are interesting ornate buildings to look at throughout the city.  I am staying in such a lovely neighbourhood with three delightful girls.  I have joined in a vietnamese game which is a cross between badminton and hacky sack, I have gone to the markets almost everyday, and I love going down our little lane with neighbours saying hello.  Tomorrow I am off to tackle (and embrace) the traffic system of Hanoi on my bicycle 🙂

I feel blessed to be in hanoi, from the moment I checked-in for my flight here I have met really lovely people that make you feel like you instantly have a friend.  My original plans to catch two buses to my friends place were thrown out the window when a guy I met waiting for the plane offered a lift with him to the centre and then my friend trang offered to take me the rest of the way by motor bike.  So with 20 kilos on my back I hopped on the back of a bike with a cute little vietnamese girl and calmly rode along.  I really enjoyed the ride – the chaos of thousands of motorbikes flocking on the streets actually felt quite peaceful.

While waiting for Trang to pick me up I had noticed so many beautiful elegant bike riders so I felt privileged to be riding with one of them.  Trang giggled as we rode along and even slowed down for the bumps.  At some stage I felt so relaxed I got my camera out and started filming.  I will show you some of the footage someday.  Helmets, jackets and covers for faces were all fashion accessories.  I saw some very casual and fun dinking (doubling) on bicycles with one pair of girls both pedalling together, another girl on the back of a bicycle gave me a big wave.  It seemed quite friendly on the streets.  I guess the level of co-operation required in order to keep such a chaotic system smooth can only work if people are friendly.  I will let you know more once I get on a bike myself – I might try to ride with an umbrella in hand to feel like a true local.

P.S.  The food and hospitality on this trip so far has been awesome!  Carrot cake (which has no carrot or cake in it but tastes awesome), lots of yummy green vegetables,  coconut water, mango drinks, food from a little thai restaurant with lots of mushrooms and sticky rice – yum.

I left newcastle on a high, with my cousin giving me two pairs of orange undies and telling me they would be good luck.  I think I need a belt for my pants because I’m quite sure on a number of occasions the brightness of my undies has been on display.   I would like to share the poem she wrote for me that went along with the underwear (for future reference always write a poem to go with your underwear, it makes life so much more exciting)

So now you are practically free from your phDeee

May you be led by your heart and do all that you please

I know you’re about to embark on a wild ride

Loaded up with fancy gadgets and a sparkle in your eyes

Remember we’re all with you, in our hearts and minds

There’s no reason to feel lonely or freak out and cry

You cannot go wrong with a smile on your face

A song in your heart and eyes full of grace

But just in case you are ever in doubt

Please know that orange undies have special powers

Let them secretly work their magic

And guide you safely through all sorts of traffic

And in any event that the undies aren’t with you

Take hold of the stone and absorb its hue

and ask yourself what would Yo do?

(She’d probably give  you a hug or help you laugh

it off with a shrug to maybe

recommend a crazy hairstyle a la grug)

Many happy travels to you, may you open hearts along the way

and meet people without fear and play

This poem has a friend poem which I wrote and I will dig it up and put it here sometime…

A bientot newcastle x

Today I spent extra time on transport.  The superficial reason was that my head wasn’t functioning properly and I’m all excited about this trip, but I think the real reason is deeper.  It goes beyond my apparent urges to understand transport, beyond my love of people watching on public transport, it is all about my body trying to stay cool and comfortable in air conditioned trains and buses in this heated city of Singapore.

Singapore seems to have a well polished transport system where you can’t eat or drink to ensure it stays that way.  So what do people do … there are a lot of screens around me and no one seems to notice anyone else.  I feel like doing something crazy to see if anyone notices, but I know these screens usually have inbuilt cameras so I just stand there in a sea of people and screens bobbing around against the movements of the train.  There are announcements to promote being obedient and orderly – moving away from the doors, not littering etc and there’s an entertaining film about how to notice if there might be a bomb on the train and what to do.  I also saw some cool little adverts for the MRT (train).  I have photos of these I’ll put up.

Out on the streets I have seen all sorts of transport.  There are some really cute old bikes (some with cargo carrying devices) and I’ve been tempted to have a little ride on an unlocked one.  Motor bikes and little trucks carrying passengers share the road with some very fancy cars.   There doesn’t seem to be too many facilities for bike riders but nonetheless there are a range of people riding them with grace.  I don’t know how anyone can manage to be graceful in this humidity.  I think it’s about to storm so I should get out there…